La Paz

7 Oct 2002

Of the big cities I visited, La Paz was my favourite. That's not saying much, to be honest, as the competition was far from inspiring. It was just as large, crowded and dirty as the others, but it also had a lot of character. Situated in a valley at 3600m altitude, the city rises up on all sides. The indigenous women are striking in their bowler hats, long plaits, and colourful and voluminous petticoats (though their inclination to pee in the gutter, shrouded in said skirts, was less charming). The shoe shine boys looking ominous in their black balaclavas. Delicious food from street vendors, singing their wares "Empanadas! Empanadas!" Soft drink in plastic bags with straws out the top. Mini buses crammed with passengers, the conductor calling out their route as he hangs from the door. 

Having said that, I had a close call in La Paz. As I explored the city I walked through a small park and was accosted by a man asking for money. He staggered towards me, disheveled and with foamy saliva in the corner of his mouth. It was clear he was on drugs of some sort. Thoughtlessly, I pulled my money purse out and he snatched for it. We were quickly surrounded by other people in a similar state. Luckily he was so far gone that I was able to wrench it back and quickly high-tailed it out of there. After I moment to gather my wits I realised how lucky I had been that they weren't more functional, or armed with knives.

I had a much nicer encounter with the locals a couple of nights later. I went out drinking with some fellow backpackers from my hostel. We were well liquored up and were carving up the dance floor in a small nightclub (well, attempting to - hiking boots were not made for dancing). I doubt I was an attractive proposition, but a local girl called Jhazmine thought otherwise and we danced late into the night. She left me her number and I eventually managed to summon the courage to call her the next evening. Thankfully I didn't have to talk to a family member, but between my anxiety and poor Spanish the answering message I left was probably incomprehensible. (It's distinctly possible I avoided being taken for a ride, but who knows, maybe she was genuinely interested!)

On the outskirts of town is the Valle de la Luna (Moon Valley), an extraordinary geological formation that looks like God got carried away making mud castles.

Valle de la Luna

Nearby is the La Paz zoo, which was much more humane than the one in Lima, though it was pretty sad seeing Condors in a cage, unable to spread their wings and soar.

Jaguar, Zoologico Municipal Vesty Pacos

Condors, Zoologico Municipal Vesty Pacos